Disc brake versus Rim brake – the classic debate when it comes to buying your new road bike. Whilst disc brakes have been growing increasingly popular, the traditional rim brake seems here to stay. Unsure which to go for? Ash puts them head to head to see which brakes may complement your riding style better…
So, Disc versus Caliper, which is better?
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Where wet weather is concerned, there is no denying that the disc brake will provide a more consistent and responsive stopping force. It also eliminates that awful sound of a gritty wet pad scouring away at your nice shiny wheel rim. That being said, there is something to be said for the simplicity of a cable-actuated brake.
The extra stopping power of disc brakes also means that much less force is required at the lever. Thereby, relieving the strain and muscle fatigue when continuously jamming on the lever, particularly on those long descents.
The disc brake option will allow you to run a tyre width up to 32mm (on our Endurance SL Disc) as opposed to a 28mm on the rim version. Allowing you a bigger tyre footprint and the ability to use a much lower tyre pressure for optimum comfort and traction.
Check out a selection of road disc bikes here
Reliability and Maintenance
There is an admirable simplicity to a traditional cable-actuated rim calliper that will rarely let you down in terms of reliability. If you do encounter a problem, they are much easier to fix by the roadside. Consumables for rim brakes (i.e brake pads and cables) tend to be a little cheaper too! Though most fans of disc brakes may argue that they are equally as reliable and cheap to maintain. However, they can be slightly trickier to fix should anything go wrong.
It’s also worth mentioning that squeezing the brake lever with the wheels off the bike doesn’t cause an issue with your trusty rim calliper. But it is definitely to be avoided with a disc brake! Doing so activates the pistons and you will soon find that there is insufficient clearance for the pads to clear the rotor. However, disc brake calliper spacers are always provided to prevent such issues. Simply pop in the spacer whilst you carry out any maintenance.
With regards to maintenance, this will heavily depend on how technically capable you are. Replacement of a rim brake cartridge should be achievable by even the most ham-fisted of riders. It only requires you to loosen a grub screw, slide out the old pad, pop the new one in and tighten the screw back up afterwards (repeat).
Disc brake pad replacement is a little more involved. After all, you have to remove the wheels to do so. However, it is much the same, apart from a simple tip of pushing the pistons back before removing the old pads. The pistons self-adjust as the pads wear, but on occasion, the calliper may require re-aligning. This is often where riders come unstuck. Where they differ most is that a set of hydraulic brakes will need bleeding instead of simply replacing a set of brake cables. If you are not that mechanically minded, this is probably best left to the experts.
There are two major features that separate a rim brake compatible wheelset and disc brake-specific wheels. Namely, the hub axles (see axles section below) and braking surface. Standard wheels have a braking surface and disc wheels don’t, as they have no need for one. Why do we mention this? Well, it is one of the minor drawbacks of the rim brake.
If ridden throughout the year and in all weather conditions, it’s possible to wear out the wheel rim prematurely. Certainly much more quickly than someone who only rides their bikes infrequently and only ever in fair weather.
Each to their own on this topic I guess. Flat mount technology and ice-tec rotors have done a lot to improve this for me personally. Additionally, the cleaning up of the bridge of the fork and seat-stay junctions on frames has made for some really tidy lines in the bikes we see these days. Conversely, you may argue that the hub/drop-out area of these bikes now look a little bit busy.
A big factor and one that is most often overlooked is how both types of braking systems make use of different axle designs. The traditional tried and tested method of securing the wheel on a traditional road bike with rim brakes is the humble quick-release skewer. The downside to this particular design is wheel flex. No matter how tight the skewer is, if you grab the tyre you will always be able to flex the wheel from side to side. This results in the rim making contact with the brake pads when under load.
The majority of disc brake-equipped bikes employ a bolt thru-axle system. The axle slides through the wheel and screws directly into the dropouts of the frame. Some versions require an Allen key to tighten and remove them. Others, however, use a cam lever design in much the same way as a quick-release skewer. The thru-axle provides additional wheel security by stiffening up the junction between wheel and frame. Consequently, leading to better steering control and superior bike handling. Particularly when high-speed cornering under full load.
Check out the Endurance SL Disc here
It is going to cost you more to have your bike in a disc brake version. This is for a number of reasons, not least of which is that it costs more to produce a disc frame. Due to the braking forces being applied on the non-drive side of the bike. In direct opposition to the centre of the bike via a traditional calliper.
Then there is the cost of the braking components themselves of course. These cost more to produce due to the complexity of these parts. Especially in the preferred and recommended hydraulic format. There is an awful lot going on inside an 11-speed hydraulic shifter lever as you can imagine.
Check out the Endurance SL Caliper here.
So, which do you go for then?!
My advice to you, if you’re unsure which way to go, is determined by a few factors:
- Is this going to be your best weather show and shine bike, because you have a winter bike as well? Then go rim brake if it is never likely to see wet/rough weather as you will still receive more than enough braking power performance on your fair-weather dry rides.
- Is this going to be your one and only bike and you’re out no matter what the weather? Then go disc – you’ll have more consistent braking regardless of conditions and you’ll get more longevity out of your wheels as you won’t be wearing your rims in those adverse conditions.
- Is the weight of your bike your #1 priority? Then go for rims – they’re lighter!
- You want the best bike you can possibly get and your budget allows it? Again, go disc as the disc brake will always have the more optimal braking performance.
- I’m new to cycling? Then come into one of our showrooms to try both and see which you prefer!
Either way, there is no right or wrong choice – hence why our award-winning and extensive range of bikes are available in both options across our Endurance and R872 models.
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Written by Ashley Brough – Triathlete, CrossFit King, UK Territory Manager and Super Dad to Lola!
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